Magnetic bottle opener
I started making these over 2 years ago. I made the first batch for my brother in-laws, my dad and, father in-laws. They all loved them and wanted some to give to their friends. So, I have kept making them. I typically make them for about $15 in materials and sell them for $20. If I was going to sell them at a craft fair or online I would sell for more money. This the 3rd iteration of them. I have changed how i finish them and I swapped out the pine for red oak. The pine was just too soft and damaged too easily. You could easily batch these out and sell them online or at a craft fair. I have a Sketchup file with basic dimesions in the plans section of my website.
- 4in x 1in x 6ft Red oak board - local home center
- 4 in x 1in x ? Walnut board - local wood working store
- Titebond II wood glue - http://amzn.to/2suPseM
- A can of Shellac - http://amzn.to/2s0kzST
- 3 - N52 Neodymium Magnet 1.26" x 1/8" Discs - http://amzn.to/2u2gjja
- 1 - cast iron opener - http://amzn.to/2tHeY1O
- 2 - 5/8 brass screws - http://amzn.to/2s8wxpu
- 5-Inch 8-Hole 120-Grit Hook-and-Loop Random Orbit Sandpaper - http://amzn.to/2t8pdzl
- bar clamps - http://amzn.to/2rwMvxa
- Rockler glue brush - http://amzn.to/2qGUa8N
- table saw - the one i use is discontinued and I don't recommend it.
- miter saw - http://amzn.to/2skdiuB
- orbital sander - http://amzn.to/2rLtIzd
- Self-Centering Bit Assortment - http://amzn.to/2rLpNPa
- Forstner Drill Bit Assortment - http://amzn.to/2tDhBBQ
- Painters Pyramid - http://amzn.to/2t8qm9K
Cut the red oak board into 9 equal pieces. Then number each piece all the way across it, so that you can know how to put them back together after you cut them apart.
Now cut off 3/4 of inch from each side. This way you grain will match across the front after you insert the walnut sections.
Rip the walnut to 1/4 inches wide. Then, cut the 1/4in walnut into strips the same length as the 9 red oak pieces. Keep in mind you will need 18 walnut strips for all 9 bottle openers.
Drill the hole for the magnet that will catch the bottle caps. It needs to be as close the "front"(bottom of the piece in the picture) of the wood as possible to get maximum pull force. You need to drop the drill bit all the way to the table and then back it out just a hair. Then set a depth stop your drill press so that you don't drill all the way through the wood.
Tip: make sure that you have consistent down force all the across the work piece or your hole maybe crooked or the bit might pull the piece up off the table and ruin it. This 1in forstner bit causes a lot of twist force..
Using hold downs, put the magnet on the edge of the wood and mark how thick it is on the side. Then move your bit to that line and put a depth stop to make sure you cut a consistent depth each time. Make sure to add just a hair more to the depth make sure that magnet will not stick out past the wood after you sand the wood. But remember, that you need the magnet as close to the surface as possible to get maximum pull so that it won't move while opening bottles.
Tip: Even though the magnets are smooth, they will mar some surfaces that wood will not, especially a stainless steel fridge.
Put some craft paper down on your bench to avoid getting glue all over the bench.
Spread apart the sections turning all of them 90 degress to the right except the left one.
Apply a bead of glue to all parts except the one on the far left.
Spread the glue evenly with silicone glue brush or your finger. It is not super important to get total glue coverage on these since the joint will not be under any stress or very little stress.
Then rotate all of them back 90 degrees to the left and press them all together with clamps. Try to get even pressure and make sure that the back and the bottom are as even as possible. There will be less sanding needed this way. You should see a little glue squeeze out. If not, you might consider un-clamping and adding more glue.
After sanding all side smooth 120 grit sandpaper, make sure that the magnets are not sticking out passed the wood. This is will avoid marring any surfaces that you stick the bottle opener too.
Mark and use a punch to make a hole for the bottle opener maounting screws.
Set the max depth of the your drill bit with a piece of tape. This way you don't drill the hole all the way through the wood. Because this is red oak you will need a pilot hole so that you don't split the wood or break the head off of the screw, especially since we are using brass screws here.
Tip: Making a flag with tape instead of just wrapping it around the drill bit will better help you to see when you have gone deep enough.
After drilling the pilot holes, do a test fit and actually screw on the metal bottle opener.
Now apply 2 coats front and back of spray shellac. I like this finish becuase of its naturall look, its water resistance, and that it dries in about 10 mins between coats.
Use super glue to glue in magnets. For the center magnet press the magnet with good force to squeeze excess glue up the sides and onto the back, then wipe off. Be cautious since some glues will dry to skin instantly. For the other 2 magnets, put just enough glue to cover all of the wood surface then press the magnets down firmly for about a minute. Try not to put o much glue because excess glue on the back of the magnets might affect the pulling power against whatever you are sticking it to.
Tip: Make sure to look at the glue you are using and check the cure time. It might set in 1-10 minutes but might have a 24hr cure time. If you try to use the bottle opener too quickly and the glue hasn't cured the magnets will pull off the wood and stick to your metal surface.
Here are two versions of my bottle openers side by side. The new on is on the left and the old on is on the right.